After a successful expedition season in Baja, it was time to move on to Playa del Carmen.

About half of the group was from Seattle, and our dates coincided with the football games leading up to the Super Bowl, so there was a palpable excitement among our Seahawks fans.

This whole coastline holds a special place in my heart and was pivotal in my development as a dive professional.

Now, about 10 years later, I still teach and will always consider myself an instructor first and foremost, but my priorities right now lie in community development and empowering people to chase their dreams.

Group trips are how I’m able to really connect with my community, so I was excited to share my loves in this area, cenote and shark diving, for the PLAYA DIVE EXPEDITION.

Cenotes are freshwater sinkholes in the jungle, and they are unlike anything on this planet. There are thousands of these sinkholes in the Yucatan Peninsula, many of which are interconnected below the surface in a web of cave systems. The jungle essentially resembles Swiss cheese below your feet, hiding a labyrinth that continues to be explored by some of the world’s best cave divers.

Due to drastic development in the area, I’m not entirely convinced their magic will be preserved for future generations. If you want to learn more about the issues facing the Riviera Maya, specifically the construction of the Tren Maya, check out my video on the topic.

We gathered the group and off we went to the cenotes. For many of my divers, this was their first time cavern diving, so our guides from Darkside Divers broke down safety rules and what to expect. Cavern diving requires you to stay within the light zone, which means you can enter an overhead environment where there is a cavern guide line, but you must be able to see the light from an exit point. There were some general nerves among the divers, but our dive team helped prepare each person for the new experience. Although I assumed that the overhead environment would be the biggest challenge for my group, it was actually the cold that people struggled with most. Water in the cenotes ranges from 24-26 °C (which is about 75-78 °F), and depending on your tolerance of cold, you could need anything from a 3mm to 7mm or even a drysuit for cavern dives. I was comfortable in my 5mm open-cell freediving wetsuit, but your needs for exposure suits are definitely personal. I had one client diving a shortie, and Brian, I know you’re watching this, I still think you’re insane for that, but I loved it.

As popularity continues to increase, so do the price of entrance fees. Each cenote has its own fees, and the amount typically corresponds to the level of diver amenities. Many cenotes also have camera fees, but those vary as well. Some places don’t charge for action cameras, while others will charge for every single camera, regardless of the quality or your intended use of the footage. There are even certain cenotes that prohibit cameras entirely, so ask your guide for all the information regarding rules and fees before making plans for the dive.

We visited several cenotes during our first days of the trip. It’s a unique experience to see the behind-the-scenes operations of tank filling in the jungle, driving through rough terrain, arriving at a hole in the ground, and then descending into an entirely new world that can sometimes feel like a movie or hallucination. I know each of them had their own moments of awe with the beauty of the caverns and the surrounding jungles.

However, looking at wet rocks isn’t for everyone, so day 4 brought about our ocean diving opportunity for some bull shark sightings. This dive has changed drastically since I lived in the area about 10 years ago. For one, there is an option for feeding dives. We did not participate in bull shark feeding, and in general, I still don’t want to be a part of or promote shark feeding.

There are strict rules about gear. We were not allowed to use our brightly colored fins and even my wetsuit was swapped out for a black one. Two tank setups aren’t allowed and even single tank sidemount was veto’d, so if you travel with gear like mine, be prepared to rent gear for this particular dive. I find these  rules to be a little too strict, but it’s part of the operations, so we go along with it. I have never had issues with colorful gear and diving with bull sharks, but I also haven’t spent any time with these pregnant beauties in the last ten years, so what do I know?

Nowadays, there is an established dive site. A set mooring line is right above the bull sharks, and this line is used to assist with the descent. The current can be very strong here, so the line is helpful. A tag line is connected at the bottom of the descent line and across the sandy bottom to keep divers in place. Divers must use the descent line and then stay on the tag line the entire dive. Each group has a specific dive time, so throughout the dive, your group will move down the tag line, taking the place of the previous group and allowing the next dive groups to join. 

While on the tag line, the sharks circle around, taking a good look at the divers. These bullies are pregnant females. They come to this part of the Riviera Maya each winter to give birth, with the best time to see them from December-February. This is a deep dive site, so although it is exciting to watch the sharks, you must pay close attention to your air consumption and no decompression limit.

At the end of the allotted time (or when air consumption dictates), divers leave the tag line and drift with the current, ascending towards the safety stop. The whole operation is very organized and controlled.

It’s funny to know a place over a long period of time and see these changes occur. For me, it’s a reminder that places I visit won’t ever be the same in the future, so it’s important to take it all in and appreciate the moment.

Many of my dive expeditions thus far have been to places that have had a significant impact on my life, and my desire to show people around Playa del Carmen was no different. I first ventured to this coast for my Instructor Development Course, and about a year later, returned to begin working in the industry. Leaving my normal job in the wine industry to be a scuba instructor wasn’t easy, and I really wasn’t instinctively good at the job. I was anxious and yet too proud to admit it, so I made a lot of mistakes early on.

But this place taught me a lot about being an effective instructor.

The only downside with going to the Riviera Maya during the winter is the unpredictable weather. We did have a day of ocean diving in Cozumel scheduled, but had to swap it out for more cenote diving due to choppy conditions. Although it’s a bummer to have to switch gears like that, it is one of the great things about diving in this area. No matter the weather, you can always get in the water.

We finished off the expedition with a trip to the Tulum Ruins. This is an iconic spot to learn about the Mayan history right on the coast. This is another tourist activity that has developed significantly over the years, so I recommend going first thing in the morning to avoid huge crowds and sweltering heat.

Known as the City of Dawn, this 13th-century fortified coastal city connected trade routes for the Yucatan peninsula.  During our tour, we learned about the beliefs of the people during that time, along with their social structures and cultural practices.

History is important because it preserves stories and indigenous practices and that is truly the most precious thing about these places we are fortunate enough to visit. 

Remembering our history is important to do on an individual scale as well. Being here makes me reflect on how I got to where I am today.

Azul Unlimited, the brand was created here, and the idea to open a dive shop followed after a few years of working for different shops. 

This was the beginning of some of my biggest dreams. It was the jumping off point and a reminder that if I take a leap of faith, some kind of net will appear. 

See what trips are coming up. I always give my community first dibs on spots, so you can sign up for Patreon (and get trip discounts) or my email list to be the first to know about new expeditions in the future.