I literally wrapped up my sailboat haul out, got the boat back in my slip in Seattle, and hopped on a plane for a proper dive vacation.

Getting to Bonaire was surprisingly easy, although it did involve a red-eye flight, which is always so much fun while flying economy. I arrived at Flamingo International Airport a little worn out, but the warm sea air immediately perked me up. There is a special visitor entry tax everyone pays upon arrival, but from there, the vacation is up to you. Bonaire is one of those rare destinations where the diving logistics are so simple that before you know it, you’re in the water. And that’s just what I did. I landed, dropped my bags, ate some food, and went straight into a night dive.

And that first dive did not disappoint, but honestly, I didn’t know much about diving in Bonaire before arriving. I knew I was meeting up with Dakota and his dive trip, and that we would be shore diving the whole time.

The night dive was perfect, topped off with a surprise greeting from the local residents. Tarpons. Tarpon are large, silver fish that can grow up to eight feet long and weigh more than 200 pounds. In Bonaire, they are often seen on night dives, using divers’ lights to hunt smaller fish. Their reflective scales flash as they dive bomb through the water, bringing suspense and drama to the dive.

Of course, Bonaire isn’t just about the underwater world.

I might be embarking on my birding era, but the birds here are also a total dream. The island is home to more than 200 species of birds, including the bright pink Caribbean flamingo, which is Bonaire’s national bird. You can see them feeding in the salt flats and nesting in protected sanctuaries. The island’s mix of mangroves, salt lakes, and desert makes it a hotspot for migratory species as well. This is your warning: if you visit, you may find yourself turning into a birder.

The island has around 60 marked dive sites along its coast, with another 20 or so on the island Klein Bonaire a short boat ride away. Because diving is so easy here, many people rent a truck, load it with tanks, and spend their vacation exploring the island at their own pace. Bright yellow stones mark the sites along the main road, so you can literally pull over, gear up, and walk straight into the water.

And the water conditions are what make Bonaire such a perfect dive destination. Visibility is typically between 60 and 100 feet, and the water temperature stays warm year-round, averaging 79 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit, so most divers are comfortable in a thin wetsuit or even just a rash guard in summer.

Currents are generally mild, making the diving super accessible for all levels. Most of the sites start with a shallow sandy entry that quickly turns into a sloping reef to depth. Depths range from snorkel-worthy to tech-worthy all within the same dive site, so you can really choose your own adventure with your dive buddy, even if you’re going in a larger group with a lot of different skill levels. Fun fact, Bonaire has also grown its reputation for rebreather diving, specifically on the Choptima, so if you’re looking to log hours on your unit, oxygen and sorb are available.

On land, you’re reminded of Bonaire’s complicated history. Old slave huts mark the dive site, Red Slave. People were forced to work in the salt trade until the abolition of slavery in the mid 1800s. The violent history contrasts Bonaire’s current culture of supporting life and conservation.

The island has been a marine park since 1979, and the park management maintenance is supported by the nature fee paid by tourists.

But, like every other part of the planet, Bonaire faces challenges. Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease has been spreading across the Caribbean, and you can see its impacts here. Although the reefs are still teeming with life, I wonder what the diving must have been like before this disease took over, destroying so much of the reef.

The good news? The people of Bonaire are finding solutions. Coral nurseries are scattered across the island–little underwater farms where fragments are grown, nurtured, and eventually transplanted back to the reef.

Our ocean is more fragile than most people realize, and during a rainstorm, I got a stark reminder about the impact our activities on land have on the underwater environment. 

As rain flooded the streets above, we watched the runoff take over the surface of the water during the last part of our dive.

Everything from the streets rushed into the sea, clouding the reef, and that’s why so many conservationists warn about pollution and things like fertilizers used on land. Everything ends up here.

This island is not set up for backpackers. Accommodation, restaurants and groceries are quite expensive, but if you factor everything together, the shore diving ends up balancing out the higher cost of things on land. And the thing I really love about the culture is being able to wander around the town as a tourist and not have vendors yelling at you up and down the street.

Of all the dives in Bonaire, the Hilma Hooker wreck stands out as one of its most famous, and it’s not only for all the jokes you can make about going down on the Hooker. The lore behind this wreck is truly interesting.

The ship started its life in 1951 as a cargo freighter, originally named the Midsland. Over the years, it changed owners and names several times, sailing under different flags. By the late 1970s, it had survived its first sinking and was eventually christened the Hilma Hooker, limping into Bonaire in 1984 with mechanical trouble.

That’s when things took a turn. While in port, officials discovered around 25,000 pounds of marijuana hidden inside the ship. The Hilma Hooker was seized, the crew arrested, and the ship sat tied up for months while legal battles dragged on. Nobody wanted responsibility for the vessel, since the ship was actively sinking and the government was concerned about the hazard it would create. Eager wreck divers had their eyes on the situation.

Eventually, in September 1984, the problem solved itself. The Hilma Hooker was moved to an anchorage near the reef, where she suddenly began taking on massive amounts of water. Within minutes, the 236-foot freighter rolled onto her starboard side and sank, settling neatly between two coral reef systems. The wreck has since become an artificial reef, covered in sponges and corals. Tarpon patrol the shadows, and schools of fish move in and out of the structure.

Today, she rests at about 100 feet in the sand, with the top of the wreck around 60 feet, making it accessible to recreational divers.

As with all wreck dives, penetration should be left to those with specialized training. Even with said training, please be cautious and conservative about exploring too deeply into the Hooker. Take into account your experience and comfort before the dive, and I recommend going with a wreck guide.

As I observed the propeller at the stern of the boat, I got flashes of my own boat’s prop, which I just greased and painted during my haul-out. Living on a boat has given me a different perspective on wrecks. They’ve always been historical sites to me, but now, when I see them lying on the bottom of the ocean, a deep sense of sadness wells up. What was once a working ship, someone’s livelihood, and a floating home, lost its life. But, on the other hand, upon its salty grave, a thriving reef flourishes. Corals and sponges encrust the hull, tarpon patrol the shadows, and schools of fish use it as shelter. It’s a strange mix of human history and natural reclamation, one of those dives that leaves you thinking long after you surface.

Another iconic site in Bonaire is the Salt Pier. This is a place where the island’s history, economy, and ocean life all come together.

Bonaire has been producing sea salt for centuries. The process is simple but fascinating to see. Seawater is pumped into wide shallow ponds on the southern end of the island. The sun and steady trade winds evaporate the water until only thick layers of crystallized salt remain. The salt is then collected into huge, bright white pyramids that are visible from miles away.

The Salt Pier is still used today by ships to load Bonaire’s salt for export. Conveyor belts carry the salt directly from the piles to the pier.

Although the pier is still an active part of the salt trade, divers are allowed to explore its pilings whenever ships aren’t present. The pilings are covered in sponges, corals, and sea fans, making the perfect environment for fish to gather in huge schools around the structures. Tarpon, barracuda, and turtles are often seen cruising around the perimeter as well. Light filters down between the beams of the pier, creating a dramatic underwater scene.

Night diving here really took my breath away. The tunnel vision I experience from only focusing on what’s within my dive light allows me to really notice some of the most bizarre creatures of the reef. And the sighting that took the cake on this trip was my first slipper lobster. I had no idea what I was witnessing, but I loved every second of it. This prehistoric-looking little guy is nocturnal and seemingly fearless as it bullied this lion fish for the best lounging spot on the reef. The flat, wide appendages are its antennae, and although they look quite different, they are actually closely related to spiny lobsters.

After a week of gorgeous diving, it was finally time to wrap up the scuba portion of the trip.

Over the years, Dakota has sung the praises of this magical little island, and I’m so glad I finally experienced it. I haven’t had a proper dive vacation in years. When I travel, I’m usually taking groups on diving expeditions or working on specific content for YouTube, so this was different. Although I must admit, I did go on this trip with some work motives. Obviously, you’re watching a video about it, but more importantly, I wanted to figure out the logistics of bringing a dive group here in 2026. I’m still finalizing details, so if you’re interested, sign up for my email list or Patreon to be the first to know about the expedition.

For the last full day of vacation, Dakota and I wrapped things up with some freediving at the Salt Pier. I have neglected my freediving practice over the past year since moving onto the boat, and I need a jumpstart for a new project coming up next month. My Patreon members know all about it, but I’ll be sharing a video here in the next few weeks. There is something so pure about freediving and its intoxicating effect, making me connect with every sensation in the body during a breath hold.

Bonaire is a true dive vacation. You get to enjoy diving without the exhaustion of a liveaboard. Plus, if your travel buddy isn’t a diver, there are plenty of things for non-divers to enjoy. If you want to join me on a dive trip here in 2026, check out details here.

See what trips are coming up. I always give my community first dibs on spots, so you can sign up for Patreon (and get trip discounts) or my email list to be the first to know about new expeditions in the future.